2019 CARTOLOGY, Alheit Vineyards. Western Cape, South Africa

87% Chenin Blanc, 13% Semillon; matured in old oak barrels

The talented and much revered Chris Alheit is making only Chenin Blanc (or Chenin blends) from exceptional sights. This is what he says about Cartology:
Concept: (meaning the study of maps) is a vinous exploration of Cape heritage. It is intended to be a picture of the Cape, seen through the lens of her mature vineyards, in a given vintage. Therefore, the cuveé is composed of rare and extraordinary parcels of mature dryland bushvines. Naturally, the varieties used are also heritage varieties, namely Chenin blanc and Semillon. They have been planted in the Cape for centuries.

Rich but under-stated. Impressive, but not instantly. A wine to be savoured slowly.

“Such intensity! Salty beeswax on the nose and some green notes (Sémillon?) streak the liquid honey (though it’s a bone-dry wine) and real grip on the inside of the palate. Very tense but with masses of fruit. Still very youthful but it’s rather difficult to resist. Really throbs for ages on the finish. My only complaint? That the Diam stopper they use expanded so rapidly after being extracted that I couldn’t get it back in a few minutes after pulling it. I should imagine that this wine will last for weeks in an opened bottle.” 18/20 – Jancis Robinson