2014 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET, 1er Cru Maltroie, Bernard Moreau. Burgundy

100% Chardonnay, matured for 18 months in 400 litre oak barrels (25% new).

A classic family-owned and run estate (tracing its roots back to 1809) and actually based in neighbouring Chassagne-Montrachet. Brothers Benoit (who looks after the vineyards) and Alex (responsible in the winery) Morey are now in charge. They have around 15 hectares of vines, split between 20 or so vineyard sites, mostly in Chassagne and St Aubin, with just one small parcel in Puligny.

Maltroie is an important Premier Cru vineyard, just next to the village of Chassagne.

Moreau’s wines have, like this from most top Burgundy producers, increased in price dramatically in recent years. In this case, the hype is justified. This 2014 is now at a near-perfect state of maturity; golden and softly rounded, but still delicate and fine.

“Alex and Bernard Moreau’s reputation for exceptional Chardonnay continues to gather apace. Tasting through the range at th domaine (situated opposite 1er Cru La Maltroie) is a fascinating insight into Chassagne-Montrachet’s different terroirs, each wine expressing very specific characteristics; not something that every vigneron in Burgundy always achieves. The domaine uses natural yeasts, long alcoholic fermentation, doesn’t stir lees and, on the evidence of the outstanding results of recent vintages, the sky now seems the limit for this historic domaine.” – Noble Rot Magazine, Issue 16.