2009 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER. Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux (Magnum)

Since 1987 the northern section of Graves has been called Pessac-Léognan, and the most famous estates (Haut-Brion and La Mission) are actually in the Bordeaux suburbs. Domaine de Chevalier is, however, at the south-west limit of the area, surrounded by pine forest. The soil is (as expected) gravelly, also with some dark sand, over a sandstone bedrock; overall infertile and well drained, ideal for vines.

65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot; 18 months in oak (half new oak).

Olivier Bernard owns the estate, which has 38 hectares of vines (5 for the white wine, which is much sought after). Previously criticised for lacking intensity, the red is now accepted as one of the most elegant (and best-priced) of the appellation.

2020-2035.

A great, under-rated Château (but, unusually, called a Domaine). The 2009 is a surprisingly sophisticated wine considering the warm vintage. Medium-bodied, under-stated, yet oozing classy oak and just the right level of ripeness. Rich without being blowsy.