2014 MAZOYÈRES-CHAMBERTIN, Grand Cru, Taupenot-Merme. Burgundy

Fascinating stuff from one of our suppliers, Flint Wines:

“Burgundy wine laws allows Mazoyères Chambertinto be labelled as Charmes Chambertin as well as Mazoyères Chambertin. At 18.59ha, Mazoyères Chambertin is the largest Grand Cru in Gevrey Chambertin, yet most winemakers will label it as Charmes Chambertin (neighbouring Charmes is 12ha) for a reason I cannot phantom. For a region obsessed with the minor variations of terroir, these are unusual quirks and worth exploring. Those that claim there is no difference, possibly have a more political agenda at heart (could they possible have so little soil in either vineyard that it is easier to combine the two?).

The Grand Crus Mazoyères Chambertin and Charmes Chambertin are located to the south of Gevrey Chambertin, just below the Grand Crus of Latricières and Chambertin respectively. Looking at a map, Mazoyères faces slightly more south yet potentially with a slightly cooler micro-climate to the Charmes as a result of the cooler breeze that is channelled through Combe Grisard. The topsoil in Charmes is slightly redder (more iron rich) with more pebbles than Mazoyères, where it is lighter and deeper. In terms of style, it is said that Charmes will usually offer more luscious plump red fruit with an enticing fragrance while  Mazoyères is often more firm, structured, fuller bodied with a more savoury undertone.”

Romain Taupenot is the 7th generation of his family to run the estate. They are based in Morey-St-Denis, neighbouring Chambolle-Musigny, but have vineyards in 20 appellations in several villages. In total they have 13 hectares under vine.

Neal Martin, Vinous: “Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Mazoyères Chambertin Grand Cru has a glorious bouquet with red and black fruit, sous bois and pressed rose petal aromas that seem to flourish in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy red berry fruit laced with white pepper and orange peel. I appreciate the cohesion and length of this grand cru, one filled with panache to the last sip. This is a brilliant performance from Taupenot-Merme and it totally outclassed the Charmes-Chambertin tasted alongside. Drink 2019-2040.”