2014 VOLNAY, 1er Cru Les Taillepieds, Domaine De Montille. Burgundy

As described on the De Montille website:

“Volnay is the stronghold of the family domain. Tucked into the hillside, the vineyards of Volnay long ago captured the hearts of the dukes of Burgundy, who owned a significant portion of them.

The lieu-dit known as “Les Taillepieds” takes its name from its steep hill and the small, sharp gravel on which winegrowers “slashed their feet” while digging into the earth. It faces east and south on a mid-slope composed of light brown clay and lots of tiny gravel stones.

Volnay “Les Taillepieds” has little to envy the great wines of the Côte de Nuits : it is a model of aromatic purity, of precision and of structural exactness. The nose is highly defined, precise, pure, often floral and always mineral and spicy. The mouthfeel is robust with a tannic frame that is strict, dense and minerally.

All of these elements – the minerality, the purity, the structure and the elegance, evoke the image of a Cistercian building, like the abbeys that seem to defy time. Effectively, a Taillepieds can age and shine for decades.”

Hubert de Montille’s first vintage was 1947 and he has been a formidable figure in the Burgundian wine scene ever since, un-compromising and serious in both manner and winemaking. His son Etienne took over towards the end of the century and is now fully in charge, making wines with a touch more richness and lightness than was previously the case.

This is not your typical, ‘feminine’ Volnay. It’s a serious, structured Pinot Noir. There’s delicate fruit but plenty of tannin and acidity to ensure a long life a ahead.