2001 Château HAUT BRION, 1er Grand Cru. Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux

Since 1987 the northern section of Graves has been called Pessac-Léognan, but the 1988 Haut Brion still bears the simple Appellation ‘Graves’. The two most famous estates in the area (Haut-Brion and La Mission) are actually in the southern Bordeaux suburbs, although the majesty of the buildings more than make up for the surroundings

14th century records of a house called ‘Aubrion’ come before the purchase by Jean de Pontac in 1525 (the estated was for a while known as Château Pontac). Despite a chequered history it was the only Graves estate included in the Médoc classification of 1855, when of course it was ranked as 1er Cru alongside Latour, Lafite and Margaux. However it was in financial distress again in 1935, when rescued by American Clarence Dillon. The Dillon family remain in charge (current boss also happens to have the title Prince Robert of Luxembourg!) withe Jean-Philippe Delmas the longstanding winemaker.

“Mid crimson. Zesty and lively and not forced. Super-relaxed wine expressing what the vintage has to say. Such integrity! Beginning, middle and end show that this is a first growth with no hang ups and impressive persistence. Not lots of alcohol. Truly, very neat with lovely lift. Attractive glossiness of texture too. Already broachable.” Jancis Robinson