2011 HERMITAGE (BLANC), JL Chave. Rhône Valley

The Hermitage hill, on the banks of the Rhône, famous for producing the ‘King’ of reds. But the whites can age just as well…

80% Roussanne, 20% Marsanne, aged for a year in wood (but no new wood; oakiness is avoided at all costs)

The premier producer, now something of a cult – hence the intimidating price point

This will age as long as you want it too; simply becoming nuttier, spicier and more complex. 20 years no problem.

If you are lucky enough to drink this (rather than just taste it), you will find it’s not a big hitter, not an obvious style; it’s intense but tight-knit, improving hugely if you let it warm up in the glass. A wine for buffs.

Robert Parker, in The Wine Advocate: “Just bottled, the 2011 Hermitage Blanc also shows the richer side of Hermitage with its full-bodied, voluptuously textured and up-front profile. Honeysuckle, licorice, toast, citrus oil and liquid mineral-like qualities all emerge from this beauty, and it stays beautifully fresh and focused on the palate. A blend of mostly Marsanne, yet with roughly 20% Roussanne, from the l’Ermite, Les Rocoules, Maison Blanche and Peleat lieux-dits, this substantial white should be consumed over the coming 2-4 years, or forgotten for a decade or more. 96/100.”