2019 CONTINO, Reserva. Rioja, Spain

85% Tempranillo 10% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo & Garnacha; matured in French and American oak (but no new wood) for 2 years

Contino is relatively unusual in Rioja being a single estate (most wines are blends) and is owned by the large but excellent producer Cvne. The east is just over 60 hectares, in Laserna, near the town of Laguardia in the Rioja Alavesa sub-region.

Lovely now but this will only improve until 2028 and hold for 10 years beyond that.

The kind of Rioja that wins round many of us Rioja ‘doubters’ – it’s ripe, gently oaky, elegant. A world away the predominant styles that are either too full of vanilla laziness or tired out having spent too long in barrel.

“Mid, bright garnet. How lovely to smell a wine that is both gorgeous and so obviously traditional rioja. Perfectly judged. So rich and yet appetising. Savoury and really quite beautiful. Zesty, long and glorious.” Jancis Robinson, May 2022.