2021 PINOT GRIGIO, Terrapieno, Alpha Zeta. Veneto, Italy

Alpha Zeta is a project run by New Zealand winemaker Matt Thomson. He works with two co-operatives in the Veneto to produce modern, lively wines, always over-delivering on freshness and character at the relevant price. For years he has made our house white wine – the Garganega, Bin 70.
This comes from a single vineyard in the Valpantena Valley in eastern Valpolicella, which is just east of Verona. I’ts a warm region but not too hot – grapes get fully ripe but manage to retain freshness.

We are often rather rude about Pinot Grigio. Wine as water; wine for people who don’t like wine; the insults are pretty common. But, in truth, PG can be very good, it’s just been spoilt by the oceans of tasteless, off-dry liquid that goes under this once noble grape variety’s name.
The example here has subtle richness without losing the all important drinkability. It’s spot on for the type, and rather good value.