2020 TONSCHIEFER RIESLING, Dönnhoff. Nahe, Germany

100% Riesling.

Helmut Dönnhoff is one of the greatest winemakers in Germany (and therefore the world). He makes dry, off-dry and fully sweet wines which all combine real concentration with beguiling delicacy. Back in 2005 he was ‘Wine Personality of the Year’ in Robert Parker’s ‘The Wine Advocate’.

In previous years this wine was called ‘Dry Slate’. It comes from from vineyards in the village of Leistenberg, which are in a valley leading off the Nahe river, close to the estate.  Vines average 30 years old, growing on dark slate.

Still very young, this is spritzy, lime-fresh, juicy, pure and entirely perfect. If, however, you want oily, spicy, layered complexity, then keep it for 10 years.

“Predominantly from the Leistenberg plus first selections of the local crus, the 2020 Riesling Tonschiefer opens enormously pure and stony as well as citric on the earthy nose that is a terrific representative for the clayish slate terroir. Complex and juicy on the palate, this is a tensioned, finely reductive yet very intense and structured dry Riesling with fine phenolic grip and an expressive finish with salty-piquant and phenolic acidity. An impressive wine.” The Wine Advocate.