2020 SYLVANER, Réserve Millésime, Rolly Gassmann. Alsace

Alsace is for ever out of fashion. Normal folk think it (and its wines) are German, not French. Wine buffy folk talk about the wines in reverential tones, but rarely drink the stuff. Maybe the good wines are too much of a good thing, too flavoursome and emphatic, to be everyday quaffers. But for foodie occasions, little can match the bravura intensity of a wine like this.

100% Sylvaner.

This estate in Rorschwihr is the result of a marriage between a Miss Rolly and Mr Gassmann. Pierre and Louis Gassmann are the umpteenth generation to be in control. Their style is rich and hedonistic. Their hospitality is legendary (the longest tasting of my life was at their winery).

Sylvaner is normally dry, lean and austere. This is the turbo-charged, hedonistic version. It’s got hints of Pinot Gris or even Gewürztraminer – it is so emphatically Alsatian.
In a mixed case this is under £17 and very good value for that price.

“Very deep gold for such a young wine. Rich, pungent, open, broad nose. Lots of fun here, more evidence that Alsace Sylvaner can be a seriously interesting dry wine. There seems to be a little residual sugar (no details given) but there`s quite enough acidity to keep it tense and energetic. To be enjoyed with or without food, at peak.” Jancis Robinson.