2018 SPÄTBURGUNDER, Burgstadter, Furst. Ahr, Germany

Anne Krebeihl MW: ” In Germany, these wines enjoy the special status they deserve – over here in the UK they still fly below the radar. This rainy Wednesday afternoon thus provided a rare look at what the Germans know to be one of their very best Pinot Noirs.
Spätburgunder from the west of Franken is characterised by the spicy, fine-boned, transparent nature that the local red, iron-rich sandstone (the Triassic Buntsandstein) confers. This makes them stand apart in their German context. In an international context they are a fascinating facet of this chameleon variety.
There are two main reasons that relatively few people know about this estate: the first is the modesty of both Sebastian Fürst who presented, and his father Paul, the actual pioneer who did so much to move German Pinot Noir forward. The second is the fact that these wines are never loud; they are tender, elegant, never over-oaked – so those who are out for showiness and easy grandezza will miss them.”

I bow to Anne’s incredible knowledge of the German wine scene. But what we know for sure is that this is fine, delicate wine, by any standards.

“A subtle smokiness hovers on the tender red cherry nose. The body has a lovely freshness, depth rather than concentration and that wonderfully red-fruited sinuousness. There is something luminous, vivacious and energetic at its heart, reverberating in this elegant frame. Yes the fruit is ripe, but this is juicy, vivid and fresh.” Anne Krebiehl MW