2017 GARNACHA, Agricola de Cadalso. Vinos de Madrid, Spain

James Doidge MW, the UK agent:
“The Sierra de Gredos, a little to the west of Madrid, has vineyards planted at between 600m and 1200m of altitude. Despite the region’s generally hot, continental climate, the high altitude, diurnal temperature variation and granitic soils lend freshness and acidity to its wines, mostly made from Garnacha.
The Cooperativa Cristo del Humilladero de Cadalso was founded in 1956 by over 400 local families with vineyards in the hills surrounding the village of Cadalso de los Vidrios. But since then, as Madrid’s population has grown, it has become more profitable to replace old Garnacha and Albillo vineyards with new property developments: over 80% of the original vineyards have already gone.
In 2015 the president of the co-operative, Ricardo Moreno, persuaded his neighbours, Dani Landi and Fernando Garcia (of Comando G) to become involved: if the viticulture, vinification, and quality of the finished wine could be improved, the members of the cooperative would be able to make a decent living from their vineyards rather than selling their land.
Their experience of farming small, isolated vineyards with differing expressions throughout the Gredos qualifies Dani and Fernando ideally to select complementary sites, from different elevations and with different vine ages, to blend a true village wine, and the wines are now made at Comando G.”

From high altitude, old bush vines and matured without any use of oak barrels to retain freshness and purity, this is a modern interpretation of a traditional style. Despite the 14% there is a sense of lightness and freshness.