2011 VIN SANTO, Felsina Berardenga. Tuscany, Italy

Fèlsina is based at the small town of Castelnuovo Berardenga, on the southern border of Chianti Classico (just east of Siena). It is the warmest part of Classico and looks out southwards towards Montalcino. The wine style is bigger, broader and a little more like a Brunello than the fresher Chianti styles of Isole e Olena, Fontodi etc. The farm is 500 hectares, but less than 100 are vineyards, the rest forests and olive groves.

Malvasia, Sangiovese and Trebbiano aged in tiny barrels for 7 years.

Good Vin Santo balances oxidative (sherry-like) notes with luscious sweetness and gentle harmony. This has it all, in spades.