DRY OLOROSO, ‘Pata de Gallina’, Lustau. Sherry (50cl bottle)

Sherry is of course from Jerez in south west Spain.

Palomino grapes, fortified to 20% and then aged for many years in a ‘solera’ system (whereby the barrels are fractionally topped up to keep a consistency in the final product).

One of Lustau’s ‘Almacenista’ sherries. Almacenistas are small family-owned business operations, often run as a ‘weekend job’ by local people with normal jobs (accountants, doctors etc). These families traditionally sold their wines to the big Sherry houses, where they were blended into large volumes. As their wines were produced in tiny quantities and were often superb, Lustau decided to negotiate to buy and bottle them separately. This one is from a wealthy Jerez businessman Juan Garcia Jarana – described here by the UK agent:
“As with most of Lustau’s Almacenistas, the making of wine is more of a hobby than an economic enterprise for Sr García-Jarana. Sr García-Jarana is also the proprietor of a company called “Two Wheels”, which represents many of the Spanish, Japanese and Italian manufacturers of bicycles and motorcycles – a popular mode of transport in Jerez. Sr. García-Jarana also sponsors young riders in the frequent motorcyle races held at the Jerez race track. His wines are aged in an ancient and impeccable bodega located at “barrio de Santiago”, the flamenco quarter of Jerez de la Frontera, known as “El Aljibe” which means ‘a well’ it is one of the most beautiful in the region. It’s in these charming sourroundings that the solera of Pata de Gallina gracefully ages. Lustau first selected this wine in 1989 and since then it has gone on to be one of the defining wines of the Almacenista range.”

Dry Oloroso like this has softness and charm, but also plenty of spice and character. It may be a bit esoteric, but it’s clearly outstanding. Lovely mahogany colour, expressive mature nose of dried fruits and toffee. Rich, bone dry palate with nuances of raisins, nuts and a lick of caramel on the finish. Powerful and exhilarating.

Perfect winter aperitif but also brilliant with mushroom or dishes with nuts or nut oil (blue cheese and walnut salad for instance).

Decanter Magazine: “Gently toasted wood nose with richer praline, chocolate and dried leaves balanced by salty characters on the palate. Extremely long finish shows wood smoke and hazelnut. Tremendous complexity”.
The Wine Enthusiast: “Just add this oloroso to the growing list of excellent Sherries from Lustau. This one is tellingly nutty on the nose, thus the hazelnut and walnut flavors are expected as they become part of a bigger painting that includes coffee, bitter chocolate and baked fruits. Warming and charming, with subtle acidity. Very elegant and refined.”